Our sixth journey takes us to the See-Gaster district in the canton of St. Gallen to the experiential dairy in Goldingen, where Alois (‘Wisi’) Pfister proves daily that sustainability and superb dairy and meat products are by no means mutually exclusive.
100 years of circular economy
Wisi feeds the leftover whey from cheese production to his ‘herb-reared pigs’. The animals’ feed is supplemented with a natural herb mixture, yielding high-quality meat with an outstanding taste. The cows’ and pigs’ slurry is used to fertilise the meadows, resulting in a closed-loop supply chain that Wisi’s grandfather and great-uncle maintained when they took over the cheese dairy in Goldingen in 1924. Today, they also know just how to spread the slurry without putting undue strain on the climate or our nostrils. Very little sorrel grows on the meadows in Goldingen – a sign that there is no overfertilisation with slurry. For Wisi, the daily interlude with his pigs is a treasured counterbalance to his work in the cheese dairy.
Wisi considers himself one of the “old guard”, since upholding tried-and-tested traditions is important to him. However, the way he handles his smartphone demonstrates that he also appreciates and knows how to take advantage of the benefits of progress.
Mutual trust between farmers and cheesemaker
Wisi has a great deal of sympathy for the farmers who supply him. He is aware that their job nowadays is exceptionally demanding and that they have to meet a wide range of (sometimes contradictory) requirements. By the same token, the farmers know the importance of high milk quality in the production of raw-milk cheeses. The friendly banter during the twice-daily milk deliveries is testimony to their mutual appreciation.
In Goldingen there is a seasonally adjusted pricing system for the milk. This is intended to prevent too much milk being supplied in the spring, as experience has shown that less cheese is consumed in summer.
No ‘anonymous’ milk
It is simply not possible to produce high-quality and safe raw-milk cheeses from just any raw milk supplied by road tankers from an unspecified place. The cheesemakers need to know the farmers really well, and the farmers must know their cows equally well. It is important to identify and voice any discrepancies – no matter how small – in a timely manner, and to look for a solution together.
Wisi always hangs the board with the milk-quality test results next to the doors, where it can easily be seen by all.
Inspired by Fredy Bieri
Fredy Bieri was the pioneer of raw-milk cheese in the Zürcher Oberland, and was also the inventor and personification of and trailblazer for the ‘natürli’ quality label. His goal was to ensure the livelihoods of village cheese dairies and preserve the associated traditional cheese culture in the region. Since 1995, ‘natürli zürioberland ag’ has offered an extensive and varied range of high-quality cheeses and dairy products from small regional cheese dairies.
Fredy Bieri also convinced Wisi to forgo the thermisation (subpasteurisation) of the evening milk and to bank on the benefits of raw-milk cheese. At first, Wisi only took the plunge with his semi-hard cheese specialities. Encouraged by his success here, he then also followed suit with his Appenzeller cheese. Today, Wisi is probably the only cheesemaker to produce Appenzeller from raw milk, and not just with it.
Natürli is Wisi’s main sales partner. The glut of cheeses in Switzerland and in the main export countries also poses major problems for natürli. To remain successful in future, Fredy Bieri’s vision must be developed further. Raw-milk products have a wide range of health benefits that are still not given their due, as shown by an overview of the literature and a scientific conference.
Wisi sends a large proportion of his cheeses to ripen in natürli’s amazing vaulted cellars in Saland, canton of Zurich (photo), which further strengthens their close partnership.
Fermentation takes time
As Wisi is fond of saying, “fermentation takes time”. Unsurprisingly, we discovered the odd quirk or two in his methods. For example, he doesn’t add water to the milk, as this dilutes not only the lactose but also quite a few more valuable constituents. He adds significantly less rennet than normal, so the coagulation time is correspondingly longer. This has the side benefit of allowing us to enjoy breakfast together in peace. The temperatures and times are appropriately adjusted so that syneresis (curd-particle contraction and whey expulsion) and the acidification process still occur within the intended timeframe. The parameters for producing Appenzeller cheese and its specialities have the odd subtle nuance for the creation of unique products. There is, however, one thing they all have in common: Wisi swears by the use of Liebefeld raw mixed cultures, virtuosically combining four at once. A bit of yoghurt, which he has made himself from past batches for years, is also always added. All of this takes place at an incubation temperature that you won’t find in any manual on the subject.
In Wisi’s opinion, the rennet-whey test is the most informative analysis. For it, after the addition of rennet to the kettle, a milk sample is taken and incubated for 1 day, during which time a cheese stick forms in the test tube (Photo). The consistency of this cheese stick, the measurement of the acidity level and a small swig of the whey impart valuable information to Wisi on milk quality and fermentation progress. Occasionally the rennet-whey is incubated for a second day and examined once more, allowing further conclusions to be drawn.
Not all tools disinfected immediately after each use
All equipment and facilities coming into contact with the milk or with the fermenting cheese are spick and span, as they are thoroughly cleaned after use. Otherwise it would be impossible to produce such outstanding cheese.
Despite this, Wisi is aware that he is also reliant on the existence of a healthy house microbiota, and would never disinfect his saltwater bath or the wooden boards in the cheese cellar. The house microbiota occupies ecological niches which could otherwise be usurped by adventitious, possibly undesirable microorganisms.
Four strong mainstays
Three mainstays have already been mentioned in the above paragraphs: the herb-fed pigs, marketing via natürli and the Appenzeller cheese, whose production volume, quality assessment and marketing are managed by a trade association.
The fourth mainstay is direct sales on an impressive scale. By his own account, Wisi does not just have customers, but a veritable fan club as well.
Raw-milk cheese dairies make excellent teaching operations
Wisi is also fond of saying that producing raw-milk cheese requires a keen feel. You are working with nature; every day is special. He feels certain that separation of the cream in the evening milk overnight in the kettle can vary according to the phase of the moon. There may also be minor deviations in curdling, acidification or synaeresis requiring slight adjustments in the production process. This keen feel is best learnt from seasoned professionals. Wisi also attaches great importance to the training of apprentices. Currently he is master to an apprentice, Kevin, whom he is wholeheartedly committed to initiating into the fascinating art of cheesemaking.
Successors wanted
To judge by the obvious pleasure that Wisi takes in his work, the Goldingen cheese dairy is the ideal employer and workplace and represents a unique opportunity for any cheesemakers who are keen to take their destiny into their own hands and who prefer to work from home.
Unfortunately, Wisi’s search for a successor has been unsuccessful to date. It would be a brilliant result if this report encouraged a suitable candidate to apply.
The Pfister family and their cheese dairy were portrayed in the series Wohl bekomms: Käse, Laib und Leben [‘Enjoy: cheese, loaf and life’] from Servus TV. This highly watchable film gives us a glimpse of Wisi’s fascinating craftsmanship and fulfilling life.
The most important things in life
We chose Goldinger ‘Gourmet’ cheeses for the sensorial description. The cheeses were ripened for 4, 9 and 14 months respectively in natürli’s vaulted cellars in Saland, canton of Zurich.
- After 4 months’ ripening, Goldinger Gourmet delights with a very agreeable mouth feel and a mild taste composed of milky and flowery facets. Very refreshing (crème fraîche) as well as a touch on the sweet side (honey). It’s a cheese that will have you coming back for another piece, where just a little is not enough. It’s also a cheese that promises great potential for an extended ripening.
- After 9 months the cheese is very savoury, even slightly piquant. The flavour has gained a great deal of complexity and now also encompasses smoky facets, bacon, onion and caramel. A distinctive umami note now enriches the taste. The cheese mentally transports us to an alpine cheese dairy.
- The 14-month Goldinger Gourmet is a big surprise. We had expected it to be even more savoury, perhaps even a bit too savoury. How wrong we were! The cheese delights us with its lovely harmoniousness. As we chew, the crystals crunch seductively. The cheese melts wonderfully on the palate, and the flavour is incredibly varied. In addition, nutty, fruity (e.g. dried apricots), earthy and woody flavours can now also be detected.
For the pairings (mariages) we plumped for a selection of regional beers, since beer is also Wisi’s preferred tipple with his cheeses.
- The Pale Ale (beer too dominant) and the Pilsner (overpowering flavour of hops, too bitter) refused to marry with any of the cheeses.
- We really liked the wheat beer with the 4-month-matured cheese: the pairing was highly invigorating, refreshing and fruity, and with a surprising vanilla note. The ideal combination for the first half of a football match, quelling hunger and thirst like a charm and lending increased dynamism to the atmosphere with each bite and sip.
- For the second half of the match, we recommend the combination of a pale beer with the 9-month-old Goldinger Gourmet. The beer tones down the cheese’s pungency and the cheese tempers the bitterness of the beer, with a marvellous caramel flavour soaring above it all. A combination that awakens all the senses and has a wonderfully long echo, so that one’s attention is now completely focused on the match.
- And after the match, there’s either cause for celebration, or a disappointment will need to be digested. For both scenarios, the combination of the 14-month Goldinger and a lager is ideal. What brilliant flavour fireworks – leading to the abiding realisation that there are far more important things in life than football.
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Last modification 25.10.2024
